Spain’s Las Canarias archipelago, the Canary Island chain, is
located off the northwest coast of mainland Africa. Almost half the
landmass falls under some protection as parkland and four of Spain’s 14
national parks can be found in these volcanic islands. The seven major
islands and six islets have micro climates that will take the visitor
from sub-tropical to semi-desert areas, so the cruising grounds are
varied and dramatic. The weather is reminiscent of permanent spring,
much like that of coastal Southern California, with temperatures ranging
from 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Bareboat chartering is ideal April to
November but hardy sailors from Northern Europe will be seen on boats
and beaches in the winter months as well.
The Canary Islands spread over 240 miles in an East-West line. A major
tourist destination for Europeans hailing from colder climes, the
islands are technically an autonomous province of Spain but lie only 65
miles west of Morocco, in northern Africa. With steady northeasterly
trade winds and a mild climate year-round, these seven islands (Gran
Canaria, Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, Tenerife, La Palma, Gomera, and
Hierro) and their six smaller siblings (Alegranza, Graciosa, Montaña
Clara, Roque del Este, Roque del Oeste and Lobos) offer ideal cruising
grounds loaded with natural beauty and treasures of European history.
Contrary to popular belief, the Canary Islands do not have many
canaries—and they were not named for the small birds. The origin of the
name is hazy but it is derived from the Latin Canariae Insulae, meaning
“Island of the Dogs.” Some speculate that the first visitors found
multitudes of large dogs, while others believe that the original
inhabitants of the islands, called Guanches, used to worship dogs and
mummified them. Still a third theory says that monk seals, so-called sea
dogs, were once plentiful in these islands and gave them their name.
Today,
the association of the islands with dogs is solid and two dogs even
appear on the country’s coat of arms. Due to strong trade winds,
distances between the islands, and the large Atlantic swell, a one-way
downwind charter will not only be more comfortable, but will also allow
you to explore more of the islands without having to beat back to an
upwind base. Canary Sun Sailing for example, is a charter company that will accommodate that arrangement for an extra fee of 300 Euros.
The
cruising grounds are diverse from the dry volcanic landscapes of
Lanzarote and Fuerteventura to the green forested areas of Tenerife,
with Gran Canaria and its rich urban history in between. It’s best to
set a loose itinerary with time to explore on land, either by visiting
one of the national parks or strolling through shops and restaurants of
the numerous small towns.
Lanzarote is an island
of natural beauty that was shaped by the world’s longest volcanic
eruption, which lasted from 1730 to 1736. It is one of only four islands
in the world to have received the Unesco Reserva de la Biosfera
designation in recognition of its unique ecosystem. The surrounding
waters are home to 27 different types of whales and dolphins, Loggerhead
turtles, and flying fish. A visit to Timanfaya National Park provides
not only spectacular scenery but also a chance to visit a restaurant
that uses a hole in the ground to grill fish and meat, thanks to the
intense heat that is still generated in the earth below. Other
activities may include taking in a surfing competition or visiting the
Jameos del Agua, a volcanic tube that holds a subterranean auditorium,
tropical gardens and a bar, all designed by artist Cesar Manrique.
Gran Canaria is
the third largest island of the archipelago and holds the capital of
Las Palmas. To the north, the island is sub-tropical, an ideal place for
vineyards and banana plantations due to rain and cooler temperatures in
the mountains. The southern end is arid and warm with large beaches and
therefore many of the tourist hotels. The city of Las Palmas has a
vibrant culture with outdoor pedestrian malls dotted with small shops
and cafes.
A must-see is Vegueta, the old town, with its cathedral
and the Christopher Columbus house. If you are chartering with Canary
Sun Sailing, which has a base in Las Palmas, a drink at the renowned
Real Clubo Nautico de Gran Canaria is another must. A stroll along the
waterfront which lines the marinas will also bring you to excellent
restaurants where you are likely to spot sailors from around the world,
and depending on the time of year, perhaps even participants of the ARC,
Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, which starts from here and finishes in the Caribbean.
Tenerife, or the “Island of Eternal Spring,” lies a
little farther downwind, with a dormant volcano and myriad marinas and
golf courses. The island’s landscape is dominated by snow-capped Mount
Teide (12,198 feet), which is Spain’s highest peak. It is the largest
island in the archipelago and the most visited. Its capital, Santa Cruz
de Tenerife, can get quite busy during carnival season. Another popular
destination is San Cristobal de la Laguna, the third largest city in the
Canary Islands and one that has been designated by UNESCO as a World
Heritage Site.
Getting there
Iberia, KLM
and Air France all service the islands with most flights connecting in
Madrid although there are some direct flights from London.
Ferries
and inter-island flights are easy to arrange, and between the
well-developed tourist infrastructure and the friendly locals, the
Canary Islands are an excellent getaway for week or more. Due to the
distances and winds, however, it is advised to have an experienced
sailor aboard.
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