There are hundreds of canals and rivers to cruise throughout France. Canal du Midi is possibly the best known but Burgundy, Franche-Comte, and Brittany are popular destination as well. By definition, barging is a slow roll and you won’t be covering a lot of territory so start in the region that interests you most. Luxury hotel barges usually have set itineraries for one or two weeks, while many self-drive companies offer boats for short weekend cruises or multi-week excursions.
Nicols is a self-drive rental boat company with bases in various locations throughout France. Below are two itineraries, both starting at their Dole base in Franche-Comte in the Jura, which will provide a week of entertaining options. One way drop-offs are available with an extra charge.
Dole to Port-Sur-Saone (one way) – approximately 130 kilometers (80 miles) with a long tunnel and nearly 60 locks.
Day 1:
Dole – Start in this charming town and take a half day to explore its vibrant old town with the Louis Pasteur museum and romantic river walk. Once on the boat, head south on the Rhone au Rhin and experience your first self-serve lock.
Day 2:
Auxonne – You’ll turn up-river on the Saone and head to Auxonne, a charming town of 8,000 people that is known for the artillery school where Napoleon was trained.
Day 3:
Pontailler – This quaint village is home to approximately 1300 and makes a nice afternoon stop.
Day 4:
Mantoche – Tie up to a short stone wall in a lovely park-like setting, take your table and chairs off the deck and enjoy a picnic next to the boat.
Day 5:
Gray – Gray is home to a number of museums and a Notre Dame basilica. The views with the stone bridge make for great photos.
Day 6- Ray-Sur-Saone – This tiny village of some 200 inhabitants is clustered around the town basilica. Stake to the side of the canal and enjoy some wine and cheese for happy hour.
Day 7:
Port-Sur-Saone – Le port de plaisance (in other words, the marina) is where you’ll be dropping off your boat if you rent from Nicols. Don’t miss the Fresco of Human Rights and the animal park on the island of Maladiere.
Dole to Dijon and Return – approximately 65 kilometers (40 miles) and 50 locks roundtrip.
Day 1:
Dole to St. Jean-de-Losne – definitely explore Dole the day before departure from the marina, which is situated at the bottom of old town. You’ll be traveling down river first, with self-serve locks operated by you via an onboard remote control. You’ll hand off the remote control at the last lock before turning onto the Saone where you’ll head left to St. Jean de Losne and tie up to the city steps.
Day 2:
Onto the Canal de Burgogne. Just under the bridge, you’ll see the large lock for the canal which will take you into a pastoral journey for the next day and half. There are 19 locks here, some close together, and most of the evenings you’ll be staking yourself to the bank for the night. The locks on this canal are manned with lock keepers racing from one to the other on their mopeds. Locks close around 6:30 so stop where you find yourself, and wait until the next morning around 9:00.
Day 3:
Traveling on the canal at leisure.
Day 4:
Dijon – The last lock will take you into a circular marina. Some of the large barge regulars have “reserved” space and whether that’s actually legal or not, it’s best to cooperate and find another space if asked to move. Enjoy Dijon on foot.
Day 5:
Dijon – this beautiful city has numerous churches, a basilica, a theater and countless museums and galleries. Don’t miss the mustard tasting room on the pedestrian walk that leads through the center of old town.
Day 6:
Return on Canal de Burgogne.
Day 7:
Exit Canal de Burgogne and pick up your remote at the lock back onto the Rhone au Rhin. You should be able to make it all the way back in time for dinner along the river walk in Dole.
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