You could take a lifetime to crisscross France
by canal barge but if you only have a week or two to charter, it’s best
to identify the region you want to explore because life on a canal
moves slowly. You won’t be covering much territory, as you visit cities
and villages and mingle with the locals. Whether you choose to
self-drive a rental boat or get the luxury treatment aboard a
full-service barge hotel, the following major areas of France can
accommodate what may be the most relaxing vacation you've ever taken.
You can divide France into five canal and river cruising
destinations: Center/ Burgundy/River Saone, Canal du Midi/south west,
Brittany/Loire, Northeast France, and Nord/Picardy. Try word-of-mouth or
Google to make that first choice of where to go.
Center/Burgundy/River Saone
The
Canal de Burgogne, Canal du Center and the rivers Saone and Seille form
a network in the center portion of France that give you miles and miles
of countryside to explore. Visit a hidden gem named Dole or dock in
Dijon for a city feel. There are literally thousands of miles of
waterways to explore so target the portion that most interests you and
then find the appropriate boat.
Canal du Midi/southwest
The
Canal du Midi joins the Canal de Garonne and together they’re known as
the Canal des Deux Mers (Canal of Two Seas) because they link the
Mediterranean and the Atlantic at the renovated city of Bordeaux. The
weather is usually quite good in the south and you can visit famous
towns such as picturesque Carcassone and Toulouse. The Canal du Midi is
well known so it may be crowded during the high season.
Brittany/Loire
Western
Europe has a variety of rivers and canals including the Canal de Nantes
a Brest in Brittany, which connects several rivers in the region.
Cruise along next to small chateaux and cathedrals or hire a day boat to
explore farther afield.
Northeast France
Alsace
and Lorraine are just north of the Burgundy region and closest to
Germany, whose influence you can see in both the architecture and the
cuisine. Some of these waterways were built 200 years ago for commerce
and you will pass through miles of vineyards and farmland. Some of the
large barge hotels run excursions west to Paris.
Nord/Picardy
The
north of France covers the canals in Normandy and the upper Loire
valley. You can navigate the Canal du Nord, the Canal de Saint-Quentin
and the Canal de Somme and visit the town of Amiens, one of France’s
oldest settlements. Go farther north to Saint-Valery-sur-Somme where
William the Conqueror set sail for England in 1066.
The only other
two real choices are whether you’d like to self-drive or let someone
else take care of everything for you. The barge hotels carry from four
to 20 passengers and can be chartered for a week or two at a time.
They’re often fully staffed with a captain, a deck hand, an activities
director, and chef. Some include wine tastings at every gourmet meal,
excursions via a van that joins the barge at various destinations, and
bicycles so you can explore the countryside and then catch up to the
barge later. These floating hotels are colorfully painted and have
flowers in the window boxes, and are themselves a part of the scenery.
You won’t have to lift a finger while you lounge on deck or dance the
night away. And because the crews are usually multi-lingual, you won’t
need to stress over a language barrier. Prices range from $2,000 to
$5,000 per person depending on the season, location and the barge
amenities.
By contrast, a canal rental boat will put you in the
driver’s seat. You don’t need a license to drive one and after your
first lock, you’ll get the hang of it quickly. These boats are floating
recreational vehicles that come with a galley, heads and two to four
cabins. Some include a table, chairs, and parasol on deck, and you can
rent bikes for an extra fee. You set the itinerary (usually with the
help of the base manager) and stop wherever and whenever you like to
wander through small towns, pick up a baguette and some local cheese, or
visit museums and soak up the culture. A self-directed tour usually
requires a bit more research so you don’t miss any highlights, or you
can just stop where the big barges do and check out what they’re doing.
Dust off that high school French, but don’t worry, it doesn’t take much
to communicate with the lock-keepers and the locals are friendly. Prices
depend on the length of the tour, the size of the boat, and the charter
company.
Once you've chosen where to cruise and how to do it, all you need to do is find a charter boat or independent barge. See our Charter Companies list for more information.
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