An army travels on its stomach, and so it seems, does a successful
charter yacht. Sampling local cuisine adds to the experience when
exploring a foreign land by boat, and knowing what the locals eat is a
good way to get a feel for the culture. When in the Spanish Canary
Islands, it’s only natural to indulge in tapas or small plates, a
concept that Spain invented.
Tapas is derived from tapar which means to cover, a definition that
has sprouted various and colorful tales of the origin of tapas. Some say
it started when bartenders covered glasses with slices of bread to
protect the wine from flies, while others insist it was from the time of
King Alfonso XIII who stopped at an Andalusian tavern and ordered wine.
The waiter covered the glass with a slice of cured ham to protect the
wine from flying beach sand. Still others claim that Felipe III passed a
law in an effort to curb drunken behavior by compelling bartenders to
place a “lid of food” over the cup, a nibble meant to slow the effects
of alcohol. That last one seems to have the most merit as today’s
Canarios (people who live in the Canary Islands) like to bar hop before
dinner, which is often served quite late, between nine and eleven at
night. They graze and imbibe while visiting with friends before heading
off to their evening meal.
Tapas can be cold such as a plate of
Manzanillo or Arbequina olives and Machengo cheese, or warm like
chopitos which is fried squid. In many restaurants, larger tapas are
served as appetizers meant for sharing. In any given eatery in Las
Palmas on the island of Gran Canaria, you’ll see a heavy emphasis on
pates and cured meats like Serrano and Iberico ham, which are very salty
and similar to Italian prosciutto. In some restaurants, like La Terraza
at the renowned Hotel Santa Catalina, an entire pig’s leg is wheeled to
the table where a waiter expertly carves thin slices.
If you’re
squeamish about recognizing your food as once being alive, you might
want to stick with things like cheese and ham croquettes or papas
arrugadas, which are boiled and heavily salted potatoes served with
green or red mojo, or sauce. Mojo rojo is very popular and each
restaurant has its own take on the mixture of vinegar, olive oil, salt,
red pepper, thyme, oregano, coriander, and other spices.
Canarios
use anchovies and sardines liberally, and serve them on slices of cheese
or just on a plate with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Try them even
if you’re not much of an enthusiast because Canary Island anchovies seem
to have a different flavor as well as texture than those found
elsewhere. Main dishes tend to emphasize fried food and lots of sauces.
If you’re watching your waistline, stick with simple fare like fish. If
you have high blood pressure, good luck, as very little is low sodium.
Be sure to pair your meal with one of the excellent Canary wines made
from vines grown on the moist, northern slopes of Gran Canaria.
Tapas
has crept into the English vernacular as American cities feature tapas
restaurants, but other cultures also have a take on small plates like
Chinese dim sum, Korean banchan or Middle Eastern mezze. Whatever you
call them, they are an easy way to literally get a taste of the culture.
Since the Canary Islands are Spanish but are only 65 miles from
Morocco, there are lots of unique influences that are not to be missed
when chartering in this part of the world. Just drop the hook and get
ready to tapear – go out for tapas.
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